-Length adjustment: The top eyelet is machined with threads than screw into the piggyback cylinder head. By unscrewing the eyelet, it allows you to increase the overall length of the shock up to 10 mm. Once you proceeded, make sure the there is still at least 6 mm of threads screwed in the cylinder head. Also make sure you tighten the big locking nut with "blue Loctite" using a 32 mm wrench. (An adjustable wrench works also)
-Spring pre-load (ride height or sag) adjustment:
Before you adjust the preload, make sure you have the correct information concerning sag/ride height specifications.
The cylinder of the shock is threaded and so is the aluminium collar on top of the spring.(or springs).
To raise the vehicule, you need to put more tension on the spring by turning this collar clockwise using the pin spanner wrench. Once it is at the correct position, use a 3mm allen wrench to lock the collar. Don't torque the little set screw to much, to prevent damaging the nylon ball behind it
Of course, if you need to lower the vehicule, you will turn the collar counter clockwise.
(Also take note that more you put tension on the spring. more the suspension will feel stiff and will rebound fast.)
-Rebound damping adjustment:
The rebound damping determines how fast a shock will extend once it has been compressed. The object of tuning this is to have maximum traction by keeping the wheels (or skis) in contact with the ground as much as possible. On the other hand, you don't want them to extend to fast creating a bouncy handling.
That's why it is very important to adjust it for better results. Also note that different terrain and application will need different rebound damping adjustments. For instance, on off-road use, a sandy terrain with woops requires slower rebound speed than hard packed, clay based terrain with small braking and accelerating bumps. Accurate rebound adjustment and front/rear balance is one of the key tuning for best handling and efficiency.
-How to adjust the rebound (shock extension) speed:
There is a red knob on the bottom of the shock. (at the end of the shaft) Sometimes on other brands of shocks and OEM shocks, the rebound adjuster is a flat screw located at the lower part of the shock.
Turning this knob clockwise will accelerate the shock extension speed. Of course, turning it counter clockwise would then slowdown the shock extension speed.
-Compression damping adjustment.
The compression damping determines how hard the shock is to compress.
The goal is to adjust the compression for optimal traction, comfort, handling precision and bottoming resistance (only once in a while on the biggest impacts. Or not at all if wanted).
-How to adjust the compression damping:
In the case of a single compression adjustment shock:
By turning the knob (or the screw) located on the reservoir, you then make the shock stiffer, harder to compress.
Of course then, turning the same knob (or screw) counter clockwise will make the shock softer, easier to compress.
Someone could start at the softest position and adjust harder step by step, (maybe 3 clicks at a time) until he finds the ideal position.
In the case of a hi/low speed compression damping adjustment:
This system allows you to tune the compression stiffness of the shock differently for small impacts and big impacts.
Turning the black knob (low speed compression) clockwise (see H arrow on the knob) will make the shock harder to compress on small to medium impacts. It will affect also the handling and general feel of the suspension. Of course, turning it counter clockwise (see S arrow on the knob) will make the shock easier to compress on small to medium impacts.
Turning the red knob (high speed compression damping) clockwise (see H arrow on the knob) will make the shock harder to compress on bigger, higher velocity impacts.
Big impacts happen for instance when you over-jump and land on a flat surface etc..
Of course, by turning The red knob counter clockwise (see S arrow on the knob)
You will then make the easier to compress on big impacts.
We recommend to turn the knob (clockwise) it at the hardest position, and then come back 12 clicks (counter clock wise) for a starting point. Once you ride the vehicule, you could try either softer or harder, 2 or 3 clicks at a time if needed, until you get the best result.
We also recommend to note the different setups that work for you and maybe keep a log book.
Remember that a perfectly custom-built, assembled suspension is not optimised if not adjusted correctly. That's why it is worth it to take the time to dial it in properly, in order to enjoy your investment to the max!
For any questions, call to make sure you get all the answers you are looking for!